Carretera Austral (4/4)

Wanting to cross the border with Argentina in this windswept region is a challenge. But with a little motivation, sufficient time ahead and enough battery for the camera, it is doable. And I don't regret anything.

The journey begins early in the morning on the shores of Lake O'Higgins, near the village of Villa O'Higgins, at the end of the Carretera Austral [editor's note: O'Higgins (first name, Bernardo) is a hero of the Chilean independence]. The three-hour boat ride leads on the other end of the lake. There is a possibility to extend for five hours to admire the glacier O'Higgins. The weather is clear, slightly cloudy, I'm going! So much for the schedule, I will camp en route if needed.

Navigating in another branch of the lake to the glacier. This is beautiful: the blue-green lake, snow capped mountains, hanging glaciers around and, at the end of Lake O'Higgins, here is Glacier O'Higgins (him again!). Patagonia as we imagine! Two crew members make their way through the icebergs to get ice and offer us a glass of whiskey with ice from this multi-millennium glacier.

End of fun for today, now begins the real work. There are 35 kilometers (22 miles) to cover before seeing the road: 20 km (12,5 mi) to Lago del Desierto, 15 km (9,5 mi) along the lake. Arrived at port at 5pm, I can only hope to arrive at the lake. Useless, I arrive at the border with Argentina, at kilometer 15. Never mind! I sleep there, under the stars, before the frontier sign, feet in Chile, head in Argentina. We talked about border in the previous article. I suspected Chile clinging to hers (you can refer to the history of the Pacific War, which finally deprived Bolivia's access to the sea). In this corner of Patagonia, even some trees are stamped with a panel looking like Chilean flag. And a small airstrip was built just before the border. In Chile, a square foot is a square foot, and it's worth defending it!

The next day, I walk closer to Mount Fitz-Roy. I even managed to capture its reflection in the Lago del Desierto in the morning. I finish along the lake. On the other side, Natalia and Max give me a ride to cover the 40 km (25 mi) separating me yet El Chalten. And here is a memorable border crossing in a remote area, probably the most adventurous of my trip, but not the last. I still have a few steps in Argentina, Chile and then again Argentina, ending in Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego. I can truly feels that the end is coming soon. Another month to contemplate this wonderful nature.

And here is the whole "Carretera Austral" slideshow.