Race Info

Day 201. Kilometre 22,750 (Mile 14,135).

Distance Oaxaca-Pinpin: 3,200 km (1,990 mi)

Back to Oaxaca (from my detour by the Pacific coast), I traveled to San Cristobal de Las Casas, in the Chiapas mountains, where I was hosted by Uriel, a friend of my scout friends in Oaxaca. From there I visited the Mayan site of Palenque. Then I went to Mérida, colonial city in the North of the Yucatán peninsula. From there, I visited Chichén Itza, where I met Arnaud and Sophie, a French couple who brought me to Tulum, with a stop in Valladolid. If you haven't seen them yet, you can have a look at my pictures of the Mayan sites of Palenque, Chichén Itzá and Tulum in the previous post.

Located on the Caribbean Sea, Tulum was my first step on the “Atlantic side”. It was also my last one in Mexico. I left Anne, a German girl who I knew from Mérida. We will probably meet again in Peru in a couple of months. For the moment, I leave Mexico. I really enjoyed the country. Little by little, I learnt a lot about the culture, the history, the language and the diversity of the country. I met great people on the road. And I enjoyed the Mexican cuisine very much. The country is very far from the cliché, it is very safe to move around and a lot of wonderful sites to visit.

From Tulum, I took a bus to Chetumal, on the border with Belize, and another one to Flores in Guatemala, via Belize City. That day, after three in six months, I was in three countries in six hours. Also that day, I lost an hour. Most of you will think it isn't information. But some of you will be surprised as I was. Indeed, going East would imply to gain an hour. But both Central and South Americas do not have daylight saving time.

From Flores, I could visit Tikal, a Mayan city lost in the jungle. I also met Savant, from Nepal, who travels in the same direction; I'll probably meet him again in Honduras in few days. Then I crossed the whole country, via Guatemala City, to reach Pinpin, near Tacaná and the volcano of the same name. Almost on the border with Chiapas, Mexico, I spend a few days with Nico and Elsa, a French couple, who work there. From Pinpin, I am going to Lake Atitlán to climb Volcán San Pedro. And I will visit the wonderful city of Antigua and Guatemala City.

Mayan sites of Yucatan

For once (or even forever!), let's forget our European perspective on History. The history of the Americas does not begin in 1492 with Christopher Columbus' "discovery". For several dozen of millennia, the continent has continuously known cultures and civilizations, be they Native American, Andean, Amazonian, or even Caribbean.

Mexico is no exception to the rule. It has a rich and complex history of ancient civilizations which followed one another in time and in territories which sometimes went South to Colombia and North to the United States. These civilizations are known to have left a significant legacy in the fields of science and art.

Few points in time and geography (source: Wikipedia). In recent weeks, I posted photos of Teotihuacán, the civilization of the same name, which has experienced significant development from the 2nd century BC to the 8th century AD. Its influence extended geographical mainly in the region of modern Mexico City.

Still in the area of Mexico City, the Aztec civilization developed later, from the 14th century AD. It "fell" with the arrival of the Conquistadors in the early 16th century. The Aztecs are also known as Mexicas, hence the current name of the country.

Further south, in the State of Oaxaca, the city of Monte Alban was founded by the Olmecs, present on the Gulf of Mexico coast and along the Pacific coast (States of Guerrero, Oaxaca and Chiapas) and down south to the current Costa Rica, from the 13th century to the 6th century BC. But the city of Monte Alban reached its peak during the Zapotec period, from the 6th century BC to the 8th century AD.

Finally, the Maya civilization extended from the 11th century BC to the 16th century AD. It occupied a territory that included the current State of Chiapas, Yucatan Peninsula, Guatemala and western regions of El Salvador and Honduras.

So now here are pictures of the Mayan sites of Palenque (Chiapas), Chichen Itza (State of Yucatan) and Tulum (State of Quintana Roo). Most of the remaining buildings emerging from the surrounding jungle are religious. Unfortunately, the houses that stretched around the temples have disappeared today. It is somewhat difficult to imagine life back then. But what remains worth seeing.

In addition to the pyramidal temples, there are still fields of juego de pelota (ballgame). This sport ritual was aiming at getting a latex ball in a vertical stone ring. It looked like basketball, except that the basket is rotated in the opposite direction (see photo at Chichen Itza), the players were passing the rubber ball only by bouncing them on hip and the captain of the winning team was beheaded, which was the highest honor.

Cliché or not cliché? That is the question

"Mexico is dangerous" – Cliché!

     Obviously I don't want to minimize the over 12,000 annual deaths related to drug trafficking. Since 2006 and the election of Felipe Calderon as President of the Republic, the army and drug traffickers are in a state of war. The cartels among themselves also use increasingly violent methods in order to extend their influence and territorial control.

     But every day, all this violence that appears regularly in our newspapers and in the news cannot not be felt as such in cities or countryside. Man has to be cautious, but it is far from the stereotype of a Mexican to fire and sword, which has a tough life in Europe and especially in the United States. No, there is no risk of being beheaded or cut into small pieces at each street corner. Instead, people are very friendly and come rather naturally to you to offer assistance or help direct you.

"The Mexican wears a plaid shirt, jeans, cowboy boots, a straw hat, and a mustache" – Not a cliché!

     You like it or not, it is more in the northern half of the country that men are mustached. As for the reminiscent of Westerns dress code, my explanation is the following: in the nineteenth century, Mexico and the great southwest quarter of the current United States were one. While it is almost uniform for Norteños (people from Northern States), it is not rare to find some also further south. Another elegant masculine dress code: the t-shirt pulled up high over the abdomen. This practice reveals rarely perfect pecs, but seems effective against heat.

"Mexican cuisine? Ah yes, tacos and Tex-Mex!" – Cliché!

     For French people, gastronomy is part of our national identity. It is even now listed in Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. We have our regional culinary specialties. We are proud, we love to talk about it and show. Well in Mexico, that's all the same.

     Mexican cuisine is also part of the World Heritage. It is very diverse and with many influences. It is about much more than Tex-Mex restaurants, offering specialties from a specific region, between the north-eastern Mexico and Texas. It would be annoying to list everything that I tasted, but here are some benchmarks anyway.

     Corn is the basis for many things, starting with the famous tortillas. These flat breads of maize flour are the staple food of Mexican cuisine, the equivalent of baguettes in France. Not to be confused with the Spanish tortilla, which is a delicious omelette with potatoes. Tortillas also serve to make the equally famous tacos, rolled and stuffed with meat, vegetables, cheese, etc.

     The chile is served with everything. There are actually about sixty different sorts of chiles. Typical of Mexico, it is very rare to find them in other cuisines, including Latin America. They are more or less long, more or less large, more or less red, green or orange, and above all more or less spicy! Very good for health, they abound particularly vitamins C and A. They are widely used for making sauces (which they use like Ketchup or mayonnaise) but they are also marinated and added in tacos garnishing for example, or just to be eaten as a pickle for the bravest. Never forget that it's spicy at the entrance ... but also at the end of the digesting process!

     Other ingredients such as tomatoes, onions, beans and of course avocado, are also widely used. After that, there is a whole arsenal of yummy regional dishes. The list is long, but the most motivated of you can do a little research on the internet. You can easily find examples and pictures.

"The Mexican is never on time" – Not a cliché!

     The Mexican (because we can generalize this point, with few exceptions) does not have a sense of punctuality. But changing of perspective help see more generally where it comes from. The time dimension is just another dimension in Mexico. Everything takes longer, and not necessarily because we do things more slowly (although...). It's just that in the meantime, things always happens, sometimes very improbable. And then we start something before finishing previous one(s). Everyone takes its time. There is much discussion before making a decision or start to move. And consequently, when planning a schedule, you can be almost certain it will not be respected. The question remains, according to the people, how long will be the delay. Personal record: 7 hours, equivalent to the jet lag between France and Mexico! A notable exception, so unexpected, almost inexplicable, only buses leave on time. But the arrival time is already more flexible. Positive thing, we end up with an approach to life much more relaxed.

"Mexico is only about fine sand beaches and coconut trees" – Cliché!

     First Mexico is a very large country (nearly four times larger than France), bordered by the Pacific Ocean on one side, the Gulf of Mexico on the other. So it is not wrong in itself to consider its vast coastline, and some of its beautiful beaches. But this is overshadowing much of the country inland. And the interior is very varied. Desert in north, tropical in the south. Without forgetting the great plain of the Yucatán peninsula in southeastern, Mexico is very mountainous. It is traversed lengthwise by two major mountain ranges: the Sierra Madre Oriental and the Sierra Madre Occidental, which is extended by the Sierra Madre del Sur. Even a few dozen kilometers from the coast, we are already high in altitude. An quite significant example: Mexico City, the metropolis, is at the same altitude as Val Thorens, the highest ski resort in Europe (2,300 m).

"In Mexico, music is everywhere" – Not a cliché!

     Any kind, anywhere, all the time. It's a concept! In bars, in buses, in shops, on the street, at any time of day and night, you can hear music. It is more or less loud, and more or less good music. There is a very strong influence of US music. But of course there is also street orchestras or small groups of Mariachis in traditional costume who come and perform at your restaurant table if you ask for it. This traditional music is part of the World Heritage, as well as gastronomy.

     All this is to be added to background noise. Children seem to submit more their vocal chords to regular exercise, including late at night. Men on the first steps of the bus shout destinations to round up clients. Taxis keep horning to show availability. And it seems that people speak loudly in general. Finally only in churches can be found the notion of silence.

The State of Oaxaca

It is a small concentrate of Mexico. Both coastal and mountainous. A long history. The remains of past civilizations. A significant indigenous culture. Colonial cities. And rich cuisine.

This time, the scouts played the main organizers. A chain was established. Thank you to Catherine and Cecile who played the central links, by email. On site Carlos, Gerardo, Guillermo, Erick, Edgar and Sandra took up the task. They hosted us, my friend Karine and I, and let us discover the city and the region.

We obviously visited the historic center of Oaxaca. Typical colonial architecture, colorful houses, churches on every street corner, and a small Alliance Française that we found randomly on July 14 (French National Day – a.k.a Bastille Day). Then we went to Monte Albán, ancient Zapotec city very well preserved, on a promontory overlooking the city of Oaxaca and surrounded by other mountains. More information on Wikipedia.

We tasted the joys of regional cuisine and toured in covered markets. They are selling bulk roasted insects (we tested for you, it's good!), meat which will then be baked in the center aisle, small breads, chocolate in all its forms (regional specialty), fresh fruit juices, mezcal (close cousin of tequila), cloth, utensils, small super-kitsch souvenirs, and finally all that can be found in a bazaar worthy of the name. I could also attend the celebration of Guelaguetza which happen every year the last week of July. It is a feast that brings together everything that the State has good in terms of local folklore: cuisine, mezcal, dance, music, handicrafts, etc.

Finally, the coast really reminded me of the backdrop for the Pirates of the Caribbean. The rocky coast is covered with dense tropical vegetation. The houses are huts covered with palm trees and hammock at the beach is particularly popular. The blue ocean is Pacific on paper and in appearance but so dangerous. Currents extremely powerful and contradictory competing the last few meters before the beach. Result, waves of more than five meters and us, poor little humans, unable to soak more than over the hips to avoid being away forever. Too bad because the water (and air!) temperature was calling for so much more!

Race Info

Day 182. Kilometre 19,450 (Mile 12,085).

Here is a sum-up and a map of my itinerary these last four weeks.

(click on the map to widen)

Distance: 4,070 km (2,530 mi)

Mazatlán, where I arrived by ferry from Baja California. Guadalajara, where I met Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to spend three weeks on the road with me. A day visit in Tequila, inevitable. Guanajuato. Querétaro. You can see pictures from this first if you click here.

Then direction Mexico (also named D.F. - Distrito Federal - because in Spanish México designate both the capital city and the country). See also an article written by Karine and the pictures of Teotihuacán, ancient city close to Mexico.

We hit the road again towards Puebla and spent a couple of days in Pahuatlán. An other article written by Karine with pictures.

Last, the State of Oaxaca (article and pictures here). The city of Oaxaca. The ancient city of Monte Albán. Puerto Escondido, on the Pacific coast. Acapulco, where Karine took her return flight to France on Thuesday. Zipolite, on the beach. And back to Oaxaca this Monday for the Guelaguetza and celebrate these first 6 months (and nearly 20,000 km / 12,500 mi) without problems.

Then, I will cross the isthmus of Tehuantepec, which opens the door to Central America. Yes! do not forget that Mexico is part of North America. Before leaving Mexico, I still have to visit Chiapas and the Yucatán peninsula. Then, it will be the turn of all the small States that separate Mexico from Colombia.

Puebla the alternative

We were lucky to be hosted a few days in Puebla (southern of Mexico City) by Stephanie and Mauricio and little Johann, thanks to CouchSurfing. To spend couple of days with this Franco-Mexican couple of activist teachers gave us the opportunity to discover the city and the state of Puebla in a different way, off the beaten track.

The three of them live on the outskirts of Puebla in a small, cozy house. This does not prevent them from building a straw house, a little outside the city. Their goal: to show that it is possible to build a house, which is environmentally friendly, without much money. Every object is salvage material, glass bottles serve as walls, advertising tarpaulins protect walls made of straw during the rainy season, pending the construction of the roof with poles from socially responsible wood or bamboo indutries. The house is small but cozy and warm, everything possible will be built by themselves, including furniture, so as to prevent thefts during their frequent absences. Kitchen and dining room will be outside on a covered terrace enclosed by nets. Living outside in this latitude seems pretty much appropriate. A natural swimming pool is under construction to enable them and their neighbors and children to swim when hot weather. They received during the dry season many people to help in the work of the house and train them to build environmentally friendly homes.

We also saw with them the project of "collective Tomate," a very interesting project in a "sensitive" neighborhood of Puebla whose goal is to make the area more attractive to residents themselves and also for the rest of the city. Many artists painted house walls, gave painting lessons to people so that they were themselves involved in the project. The result: stunning designs on the walls, not vandalized yet, a nicer neighborhood and people engaged in a project that directly affects them. Unsurprisingly, I was seduced by the project!

To finish off our stay in Puebla, we took the opportunity of Mauricio's business trip in Pahuatlán, just labeled "magical village", the northern State of Puebla. We left all five plus Paul and Elsa, a French couple also hosted by Stephanie and Mauricio. 5 hour drive in their old Ford pickup, with Paul and Nico at the back when it was sunny and 7 in the cabin during the rain! We have experienced the joys of contortion, but it was worth it! We went in a small village far from the tourist areas in the heart of the rural population. We made a detour by San Pablito which enabled us to meet a healer, the last of his generation and also the last to know all the secrets. He recounted the history of the village and its traditions, which are also compiled in beautiful little handmade booklets on "papel amate" paper, typically manufactured on site. A marvel. We were also invited to the first communion of the daughter of the mayor, an unexpected opportunity to discover within the traditions and culture of these people. Banquet and folk dances on the programmes!

This short week in Puebla was very rich in discoveries and has uncovered a part of Mexico a little different from what we had seen so far. Thanks again to our guests!

(Article also written by Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me in Mexico for three weeks, and editor in chief for the occasion)

Mexico City

Mexico City has both surprised and delighted us. Away from ideas that we can have on the dangerousness of the city, we felt at home when we arrived!

People

It is said that the people of Mexico are friendly and hospitable. Starting with our guests Arturo and Jean-Pierre, we have to admit that we were not disappointed! There was no rush on the subway. People in the street were helpful and willing to guide us and give us information. The age of the parents is quite challenging. We were able to see many very young parents (often as a couple) with their children. The issue of early motherhood really arises apparently by Mexican authorities. Indeed we noticed that the number of children in the streets is quite impressive!

Metro

The metro is quite developed in the city. It is pretty well spread all over the capital. They are long red trains that host millions of passengers daily. The name of the line stations are listed in the form of pictographs: a pictogram per station, the name written in small print below. Practical when you can not read; we know all the stations. Less for the others! The metro is an ideal place to observe the practices of trade and therefore consumption. Street vendors succeed constantly with all kinds of objects: pens, hammers, bouncing balls, bandages, pirate CDs (monopoly of blind equipped with loudspeakers on their backs). The "artists" take over the sellers. For example, children with clowns, storytellers, musical background, men doing somersaults on pieces of glass etc.

Disability

Apparently, the city is quite well suited to the disabled. All sidewalks are equipped with specific access for wheelchairs at crosswalks. However, we have not really met disabled in the streets. And even less in the subway that is very poorly equipped with elevator or escalator. By cons, the Mexico City airport apparently applies a policy of employment of disabled people, including info points where flyers are distributed exclusively by people in wheelchairs!

Besides being a beautiful city, rich in architecture and art, Mexico City is ultimately a human capital despite its huge size and its heterogeneity. What a treat!

(Article also written by Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me in Mexico for three weeks, and editor in chief for the occasion)

Teotihuacán

Here are some picture of Teotihuacán, the magnificient "place where gods were born" close to Mexico City. It used to be the largest city in Mexico and the capital city of the largest pre-Columbian empire, which stretched out until the present Honduras and Salvador. (source: Lonely Planet - more info on Wikipedia).

From Mazatlán to Querétaro

Thank you for being patient. Here are pictures of the last places I visited since I returned to the "mainland" after Baja California. Well, I must also say that I met Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me for three weeks, and my program is slightly accelerated since.

So here are pictures from...

• Mazatlán (with Abel, José Luis, Alberto and Hiram), a charming little seaside town with colonial architecture.
• Guadalajara (with Cris, Mauricio, Celia, Anais and others), its historical center declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO and the country's second largest city.
• Tequila, its agave fields that enable the production of the famous liquor which we tasted with such moderation.
• Tlaquepaque, a suburb of Guadalajara, a former village which soon found itself absorbed in the metropolis but has kept its character.
• Chapala (with Cris and Celia), the lake of the same name, the largest natural lake in Mexico.
• Guanajuato, a mining town (mainly silver) its parks, its covered market, its tunnels and its narrow streets. Also classified as World Heritage.
• Querétaro (with Béatrice, Noé and Ivo), last step before Mexico City. Also on the World Heritage List, it offered us a different facet of a colonial city.

And the winner is...

...Enrique Peña Nieto !

The election is over. It was feared an increase in tensions, demonstrations or even violence. Finally, nothing happened.

Sunday 1st July 2012 was election day in Mexico. In fact, all elections are held on the same day every six years: municipal, parliamentarian (federal and for each state) and presidential elections. This allows to maintain a relatively good level of participation. After 3 years will be the midterm elections.

Three major parties were in the race for president: the PRD (Party of the Democratic Revolutionary, left wing party), PAN (National Action Party, right wing party) and the PRI (Institutional Revolutionary Party, "centrist").

The PRI, the ruling party for decades, ousted by the PAN during the past two terms, returned to power.

According to some people we met, none of the three was really worth being elected. Peña Nieto first.

Concretely, what elections are like in Mexico?

Before: candidates are using every possible means to seduce and convince potential voters: campaigns, gifts of all kinds (thermos, t-shirts, fans, watches etc.), posters plastered on every place imaginable (cars, walls, etc.), manipulations of all kinds especially with the most disadvantaged and illiterate to "buy" their votes.

During: queues of hundred meters in front of polling stations, polling booths, ballots to tick depending on the party you vote for (like on the poster of Josefina PAN), various ballots to be inserted into the corresponding boxes, thousands of election observers and the ley seca (48 hours ban alcohol sales in bars and shops)..

After: results with a wide gap for the presidential election leaving little doubt (in spite of probable fraud), more questionable results at the local level, counting and recounting of votes. For now, we did not see protests.

These elections can only be resonant with what we lived in France: how free are the voters, regardless of media manipulation and the parties themselves? how real democracy works? A glimmer of hope: Students are beginning to be indignant against media manipulation and the absence of public policy with the movement "Yo soy 132" movement born after the confrontation of 131 students at the University Iberoamericana with the president elect. A step forward to act on the reality and to move towards greater democracy and social justice.

(Article written by Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me in Mexico for three weeks, and editor in chief for the occasion)

La Paz, Baja California Sur

It's now time for me to leave the Baja California Sur peninsula to come back on mainland. Here are some pictures of those ten days spent here. I was warmly hosted by Carlos and he made me meet his friends with whom I also got along very well (Melissa, Dilmary, Luis, Kenia, Oscar, Merari, …). I have to admit it was easier since most of them including Carlos are students in foreign languages. We could practice French together.

La Paz is a peaceful seaside city with a historical center built around a cathedral. There is also a malecon (nice walk along the sea), perfect for sunsets and end-of-the-day stroll.

One day we even hit the road to go to Los Cabos, at the very end of the peninsula. We stopped first at Todos Santos, where we saw the Hotel California that seemed to have inspired the Eagles' famous song. Then we visited a gorgeous hacienda in Cerritos, which is now converted in a hotel. Great view.

At last, in Cabo San Lucas, we went on a boat to go around the point and the arch, which separate the Sea of Cortez (a.k.a. Gulf of California) from the Pacific Ocean. Besides the G20 Summit, Los Cabos is also a perfect spot for pelicans and surfers.

Race Info

Here is a map to follow the road I took. I spent a week at Victor and Reyna's in Agua Prieta, at the US border. After a day long bus trip, I spent three days in Chihuahua where I was hosted by Enrique and Adria (that I will maybe see in Mexico City since they just moved there). Then I took the train to Los Mochis. But I stayed two days in Creel and two others in Urique, in the heart of the Barrancas del Cobre. For more details on this part, see also the previous article "The adventure starts now!".

From Los Mochis, I took the boat to La Paz, capital city of Baja California Sur. I spend a week at Carlos'. With friends of his, we even did a day trip to Los Cabos. Besides being the place for the on going G20 Summit, it is an amazing desert city on the coast, where the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California meet. I also crossed the Tropic of Cancer. Technically, from Mazatlán (where I'll arrive this week) I'll start the tropical part of my trip.

Agua Prieta - Chihuahua : 545 km (340 mi)

Chihuahua - Los Mochis : 655 km (405 mi)

Los Mochis - La Paz : 210 km (130 mi)

Roundtrip to Los Cabos : 320 km (200 mi)

La Paz - Mazatlán 455 km (280 mi)

"The adventure begins now!"

I left Victor and Reyna saying that. They hosted me for a week in Agua Prieta, at the Mexican border. An adventure, not only because I will take my first steps alone in Mexico but also because that day, for the first time since January, I left without knowing where I'll crash at night. All I knew was that this bus would send me to Chihuahua, a one-million inhabitant city, where camping is not an option. I was supposed to be hosted by Enrique, but I had had no news from him for the last two days. So I left blindly. Arrived at Chihuahua bus station, at nightfall, no cellphone, no internet, and no working public phone. Anyway, I didn't even had Enrique's number on me. Only Victor's. My only hope was that Enrique had emailed me during the day in response to mines. So taxi, city center, cyber open late (whew!) and after two and a half hours I am finally with my hosts. First experience of Mexico rich in emotion.

Two quiet days in Chihuahua. Enrique and Adria were adorable enough to let me discover their city at night when they were back from work. I also met their friends. Nothing better to improve my Spanish and discover this new country, this new culture.

Then I took the train from Chihuahua to Los Mochis, in Sinaloa State (of the same name as the cartel...) on the Gulf of California coast. Before reaching my destination, I made a 48-hour stop in Creel, a charming village at the entrance to what the Mexicans call las Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon). The story: the Spanish discovering this canyon which color was too green to be honest thought they had discovered copper mines. The history and geology proved they were wrong but the name stuck. And in Spanish, it is plural because it is not one, but a system of six different canyons.

I was looking forward to what many had introduced me as a "touristic" option to my itinerary. I was sure I was going to meet fellow travelers! Eventually it was not for this time; the hostel in Creel was empty. At the same time, I had to forget about the opportunity to share with others an guided excursion. But you will see some photos of Creel.

I carried on my train ride. This train is a real link. If you take a map, you will not see anything except small villages (when you see them!). And almost no roads. This is the void that only cross a railroad. El Chepe (which stands for Chihuahua Pacífico) is the only long distance mean of transport (chopper is not an alternative here). So, this train is a real small village. We find everyone: the grandmother and her bundle, the couple and their two children, young people who stupidly laugh when girls pass by, the paramilitary with his machine gun slung over his shoulder, the old men in jeans, plaid shirt, cowboy boots and cowboy hat, and women in traditional dress of the Tamahumara Indian tribe. Everyone knows everyone, or almost. I don't know anyone and for all of them I am the gringo (slightly pejorative term to designate a white US citizen). And all this little world is chatting, listening to music out loud, having lunch on the station platform when the train stops for a moment at lunchtime. Friendly atmosphere. It changed me from the undergoing tension prevailing in Chihuahua.

Again for 48 hours, I stopped at Bahuichivo (do not worry, I also have trouble with those names). My objective was to reach Urique, in the canyon of the same name. For several days I had been trying without much success to find how to get there. Through forums and blogs, I just vaguely heard of an old school bus. You know one of those famous yellow ones from North America. But the messages were more than two years old and if there was no bus, the train would have left without me and I would have been blocked two days in Bahuichivo where there is no hotel infrastructure. So when I see my old school bus parked in front of the train station, I was reassured. Eventually only half-reassured, because on the same forums, it was stated that the road had nothing to envy to a descent into hell, made of fifty-kilometer dirt roads, cliffs without guardrails, molehill, potholes and any other obstacles.

The small bus, repainted white for the occasion, was packed. Baggage was stored as we could. Some people were standing in the aisle, children on their parents' lap. Even the driver had his two children sitting on a kind of board backing their driving father's window. At first I thought about the imminence of a human sacrifice, but no, they arrived safe at destination... so did we!

The bus moved off. Everyone clung to whatever possible. A bit like in a roller coaster, the adrenaline started to rise in anticipation of imminent danger. But I was a little disappointed. The expected cliffs were only small ravines. The view was all but magical because the region is mostly forested with pines, shrubs and other vegetation dry. And the road was certainly bad, but the bus with a mother of shock-absorbers is the main responsible for us jumping on our seats at every hole on the road.

Only two small "fears". The first one, a classic, is when the driver goes into neutral when driving downhill whereas we were supposed to go straight to a canyon! The second was when the bus suddenly broke, just after a blind turn. An ambulance was in the middle of the road, at the worst possible place. Not an accident but the whole bus almost ended up in the ambulance. Why? Because paramedics are not princesses; they need to urinate from time to time. Whether or not in a curve.

Halfway, the bus stopped. Everyone wondered why, where, how. Quite simply, it was half time, side change: the roads are separating. With some, I needed to change buses. But that was weird, as if all these regulars were discovered at each trip that they needed to be change midway. Anyway. Armed men are also there. I acted as if it was all very natural and avoided to ask myself too many questions. The only one concerned their age: those two there with their machine gun, I bet they aren't even 20 years old. The other with his M16 seems older. They were talking about the load, obviously problematic, of a pick-up.

Aboard another old white school-bus, our new driver left the village named of Mesa de Arturo. Mentally, I translated “Arthur's table”, but not time wonder more about what seemed to be linked to the Round-Table knights. Indeed, over there, after a succession of hills, it seemed that there was nothing else on the horizon. Yes, an empty space just after that very last hill. The closer we got, the more confirmed was this emptiness. And then, suddenly, everything was revealed or rather robbed: a gigantic hole. I had been warned: "You'll see, this is larger than the Grand Canyon." Obviously, having seen it, I didn't believe it at first. Now, yes! 20 kilometers (12,5 miles) remained, they were all downhill: the canyon is 1,900 meters (6,200 feet) deep. And down there, is the small village of Urique. And as on all roads on Earth, the driver is phoning when he does not argue with the nearest passenger, of course, looking steadily (it is not polite otherwise). But I didn't blame him, this one didn't go into neutral when going downhill.

On board my little white bus, the adrenaline seriously rose, inversely proportional to the slope in front of us. Although the bus most likely went into service under the presidency of Franklin D. Roosevelt, I chose to reassure by saying to myself that the United States are cherishing their children and education. And that in the country of planned obsolescence, they made an exception for school buses. Reassured about its robustness, it's me now the kid, all excited by the sight and the exceptional circumstances!

Arrived in Urique, again no one at the hostel. Not even the manager this time. I left my stuff and went to eat burritos and aluminum-foiled potato cooked in charcoal. All that emotion made me hungry. When I returned , the manager welcomed me: once again, I was alone for two days. But it didn't matter. The hostel was actually a set of small houses, a little outside the village. Rustic, minimalist, but very warm.

About heat, the next day we had a good 45°C / 113°F in the shade. The day before I think I was to much into the descent to notice anything about weather conditions. Apart from eating mangoes that constantly fell from the trees and deliciously fresh cactus fruits, it was impossible to do anything outside. Too bad; I'd had gone for a hike. I just toured in the village. Old men playing cards on a small table set up in the shade on the sidewalk. Cows and horses roaming over the streets. And against all odds, it's game day in the small baseball stadium!

The ascent of the canyon had been substantially identical to the descent, it just looked the other way. And finally arrived at the station for the last part of the trip, I met my first fellow traveler: Bruno from Portugal. Unfortunately, it happened when I was leaving, and traveling in the opposite direction anyway. But we had a great time discussing and exchanging travel tips. The end of the train journey made us go through other (less impressive, but still) canyons.

Thanks to this all I released little of my growing fears, amplified by those who recommend the utmost caution, avoiding going out alone at night, not showing too much my camera in the street, etc. Now I must get used to ignore the dozens of pairs of eyes and looks, not discreet to say the least, who scrutinize all my actions when I'm outside.

The US-Mexico border

It is 3,141 km long (1,951 mi) according to figures provided by the CIA. OK, it is not the nearly 9,000 km / 5600 mi which run between Canada and the US, but it is ranked in the Top 10 of the longest terrestrial border. It is quite straight along California, Arizona and New Mexico. And then, in the South of Texas, it follows the Rio Grande (a.k.a. Rio Bravo by the Mexicans) on 2,000 km / 1,240 mi.

But beyond those geographical facts, it is more than anything one of the most sensitive borders on Earth. In 2006, the Congress of the United States approved the construction of a “secure fence” (as stated in the Act) to materialize the border but more importantly to reduce illegal immigration and smuggling (drug trafficking in other words). This fence is at least 6-meter high (35 feet), sometimes doubled, and fully equipped with cameras and all kinds of sensors. It doesn't from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico but, when finished, it will be more than 1,100 km long (680 mi).

A lot of people, included in the US, are opposed to this project which reminds darker hours in contemporary history (the Berlin Wall) or even more recent (the wall between Israel and the Palestinian territories). On the field, those who really want to cross that border run up against greater dangers, going deeper in the desert for instance, whereas others dig tunnels to pass drug from one side to another.

More importantly, I have the impression that it reinforces a certain fear among the US people against their Southern neighbors. Numerous are those who suggested me to avoid Mexico on my way towards Patagonia. And the image of Mexicans and Latinos in the US is getting worse.

For those who live on the border, it is mainly a denial of reality imposed to them. Indeed, the border does not separate two different worlds. There is a strong Mexican influence in the South of the United States and vice versa. Many do business across the border, while others pass through daily to work on the other side. Some have family on both sides. And the construction of the wall combined with a strengthening of control procedures complicates the border crossing and therefore these exchanges.

Finally, the photos you will see are all taken on the US side, except the last two. You will also see the traces of fire, common in the region. Obviously, for the flames, there is no boundary. But you still see the difference: with the road along the fence on the U.S. side, firefighters have better access to fire and can contain their side when it caught on fire in Mexico. In general, there is good cooperation between firefighters and bomberos when it comes to fight together against a fire which can quickly turn to impressive from what I've seen in the region.

Nota: I lately had difficulties to properly connect to the internet from my computer. It didn't allow me to post sooner. I hope it will not be like that too much in the future. Thanks for your patience and stay tuned! :-)