30 July 2012

Cliché or not cliché? That is the question

"Mexico is dangerous" – Cliché!

     Obviously I don't want to minimize the over 12,000 annual deaths related to drug trafficking. Since 2006 and the election of Felipe Calderon as President of the Republic, the army and drug traffickers are in a state of war. The cartels among themselves also use increasingly violent methods in order to extend their influence and territorial control.
     But every day, all this violence that appears regularly in our newspapers and in the news cannot not be felt as such in cities or countryside. Man has to be cautious, but it is far from the stereotype of a Mexican to fire and sword, which has a tough life in Europe and especially in the United States. No, there is no risk of being beheaded or cut into small pieces at each street corner. Instead, people are very friendly and come rather naturally to you to offer assistance or help direct you.

"The Mexican wears a plaid shirt, jeans, cowboy boots, a straw hat, and a mustache" – Not a cliché!

     You like it or not, it is more in the northern half of the country that men are mustached. As for the reminiscent of Westerns dress code, my explanation is the following: in the nineteenth century, Mexico and the great southwest quarter of the current United States were one. While it is almost uniform for Norteños (people from Northern States), it is not rare to find some also further south. Another elegant masculine dress code: the t-shirt pulled up high over the abdomen. This practice reveals rarely perfect pecs, but seems effective against heat.

"Mexican cuisine? Ah yes, tacos and Tex-Mex!" – Cliché!

     For French people, gastronomy is part of our national identity. It is even now listed in Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. We have our regional culinary specialties. We are proud, we love to talk about it and show. Well in Mexico, that's all the same.
     Mexican cuisine is also part of the World Heritage. It is very diverse and with many influences. It is about much more than Tex-Mex restaurants, offering specialties from a specific region, between the north-eastern Mexico and Texas. It would be annoying to list everything that I tasted, but here are some benchmarks anyway.
     Corn is the basis for many things, starting with the famous tortillas. These flat breads of maize flour are the staple food of Mexican cuisine, the equivalent of baguettes in France. Not to be confused with the Spanish tortilla, which is a delicious omelette with potatoes. Tortillas also serve to make the equally famous tacos, rolled and stuffed with meat, vegetables, cheese, etc.
     The chile is served with everything. There are actually about sixty different sorts of chiles. Typical of Mexico, it is very rare to find them in other cuisines, including Latin America. They are more or less long, more or less large, more or less red, green or orange, and above all more or less spicy! Very good for health, they abound particularly vitamins C and A. They are widely used for making sauces (which they use like Ketchup or mayonnaise) but they are also marinated and added in tacos garnishing for example, or just to be eaten as a pickle for the bravest. Never forget that it's spicy at the entrance ... but also at the end of the digesting process!
     Other ingredients such as tomatoes, onions, beans and of course avocado, are also widely used. After that, there is a whole arsenal of yummy regional dishes. The list is long, but the most motivated of you can do a little research on the internet. You can easily find examples and pictures.

"The Mexican is never on time" – Not a cliché!

     The Mexican (because we can generalize this point, with few exceptions) does not have a sense of punctuality. But changing of perspective help see more generally where it comes from. The time dimension is just another dimension in Mexico. Everything takes longer, and not necessarily because we do things more slowly (although...). It's just that in the meantime, things always happens, sometimes very improbable. And then we start something before finishing previous one(s). Everyone takes its time. There is much discussion before making a decision or start to move. And consequently, when planning a schedule, you can be almost certain it will not be respected. The question remains, according to the people, how long will be the delay. Personal record: 7 hours, equivalent to the jet lag between France and Mexico! A notable exception, so unexpected, almost inexplicable, only buses leave on time. But the arrival time is already more flexible. Positive thing, we end up with an approach to life much more relaxed.

"Mexico is only about fine sand beaches and coconut trees" – Cliché!

     First Mexico is a very large country (nearly four times larger than France), bordered by the Pacific Ocean on one side, the Gulf of Mexico on the other. So it is not wrong in itself to consider its vast coastline, and some of its beautiful beaches. But this is overshadowing much of the country inland. And the interior is very varied. Desert in north, tropical in the south. Without forgetting the great plain of the Yucatán peninsula in southeastern, Mexico is very mountainous. It is traversed lengthwise by two major mountain ranges: the Sierra Madre Oriental and the Sierra Madre Occidental, which is extended by the Sierra Madre del Sur. Even a few dozen kilometers from the coast, we are already high in altitude. An quite significant example: Mexico City, the metropolis, is at the same altitude as Val Thorens, the highest ski resort in Europe (2,300 m).

"In Mexico, music is everywhere" – Not a cliché!

     Any kind, anywhere, all the time. It's a concept! In bars, in buses, in shops, on the street, at any time of day and night, you can hear music. It is more or less loud, and more or less good music. There is a very strong influence of US music. But of course there is also street orchestras or small groups of Mariachis in traditional costume who come and perform at your restaurant table if you ask for it. This traditional music is part of the World Heritage, as well as gastronomy.
     All this is to be added to background noise. Children seem to submit more their vocal chords to regular exercise, including late at night. Men on the first steps of the bus shout destinations to round up clients. Taxis keep horning to show availability. And it seems that people speak loudly in general. Finally only in churches can be found the notion of silence.

27 July 2012

The State of Oaxaca

It is a small concentrate of Mexico. Both coastal and mountainous. A long history. The remains of past civilizations. A significant indigenous culture. Colonial cities. And rich cuisine.

This time, the scouts played the main organizers. A chain was established. Thank you to Catherine and Cecile who played the central links, by email. On site Carlos, Gerardo, Guillermo, Erick, Edgar and Sandra took up the task. They hosted us, my friend Karine and I, and let us discover the city and the region.

We obviously visited the historic center of Oaxaca. Typical colonial architecture, colorful houses, churches on every street corner, and a small Alliance Française that we found randomly on July 14 (French National Day – a.k.a Bastille Day). Then we went to Monte Albán, ancient Zapotec city very well preserved, on a promontory overlooking the city of Oaxaca and surrounded by other mountains. More information on Wikipedia.

We tasted the joys of regional cuisine and toured in covered markets. They are selling bulk roasted insects (we tested for you, it's good!), meat which will then be baked in the center aisle, small breads, chocolate in all its forms (regional specialty), fresh fruit juices, mezcal (close cousin of tequila), cloth, utensils, small super-kitsch souvenirs, and finally all that can be found in a bazaar worthy of the name. I could also attend the celebration of Guelaguetza which happen every year the last week of July. It is a feast that brings together everything that the State has good in terms of local folklore: cuisine, mezcal, dance, music, handicrafts, etc.

Finally, the coast really reminded me of the backdrop for the Pirates of the Caribbean. The rocky coast is covered with dense tropical vegetation. The houses are huts covered with palm trees and hammock at the beach is particularly popular. The blue ocean is Pacific on paper and in appearance but so dangerous. Currents extremely powerful and contradictory competing the last few meters before the beach. Result, waves of more than five meters and us, poor little humans, unable to soak more than over the hips to avoid being away forever. Too bad because the water (and air!) temperature was calling for so much more!


22 July 2012

Race Info

Day 182. Kilometre 19,450 (Mile 12,085).

Here is a sum-up and a map of my itinerary these last four weeks.

(click on the map to widen)
Distance: 4,070 km (2,530 mi)

Mazatlán, where I arrived by ferry from Baja California. Guadalajara, where I met Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to spend three weeks on the road with me. A day visit in Tequila, inevitable. Guanajuato. Querétaro. You can see pictures from this first if you click here.

Then direction Mexico (also named D.F. - Distrito Federal - because in Spanish México designate both the capital city and the country). See also an article written by Karine and the pictures of Teotihuacán, ancient city close to Mexico.

We hit the road again towards Puebla and spent a couple of days in Pahuatlán. An other article written by Karine with pictures.

Last, the State of Oaxaca (article and pictures here). The city of Oaxaca. The ancient city of Monte Albán. Puerto Escondido, on the Pacific coast. Acapulco, where Karine took her return flight to France on Thuesday. Zipolite, on the beach. And back to Oaxaca this Monday for the Guelaguetza and celebrate these first 6 months (and nearly 20,000 km / 12,500 mi) without problems.

Then, I will cross the isthmus of Tehuantepec, which opens the door to Central America. Yes! do not forget that Mexico is part of North America. Before leaving Mexico, I still have to visit Chiapas and the Yucatán peninsula. Then, it will be the turn of all the small States that separate Mexico from Colombia.

19 July 2012

Puebla the alternative

We were lucky to be hosted a few days in Puebla (southern of Mexico City) by Stephanie and Mauricio and little Johann, thanks to CouchSurfing. To spend couple of days with this Franco-Mexican couple of activist teachers gave us the opportunity to discover the city and the state of Puebla in a different way, off the beaten track.

The three of them live on the outskirts of Puebla in a small, cozy house. This does not prevent them from building a straw house, a little outside the city. Their goal: to show that it is possible to build a house, which is environmentally friendly, without much money. Every object is salvage material, glass bottles serve as walls, advertising tarpaulins protect walls made of straw during the rainy season, pending the construction of the roof with poles from socially responsible wood or bamboo indutries. The house is small but cozy and warm, everything possible will be built by themselves, including furniture, so as to prevent thefts during their frequent absences. Kitchen and dining room will be outside on a covered terrace enclosed by nets. Living outside in this latitude seems pretty much appropriate. A natural swimming pool is under construction to enable them and their neighbors and children to swim when hot weather. They received during the dry season many people to help in the work of the house and train them to build environmentally friendly homes.

We also saw with them the project of "collective Tomate," a very interesting project in a "sensitive" neighborhood of Puebla whose goal is to make the area more attractive to residents themselves and also for the rest of the city. Many artists painted house walls, gave painting lessons to people so that they were themselves involved in the project. The result: stunning designs on the walls, not vandalized yet, a nicer neighborhood and people engaged in a project that directly affects them. Unsurprisingly, I was seduced by the project!

To finish off our stay in Puebla, we took the opportunity of Mauricio's business trip in Pahuatlán, just labeled "magical village", the northern State of Puebla. We left all five plus Paul and Elsa, a French couple also hosted by Stephanie and Mauricio. 5 hour drive in their old Ford pickup, with Paul and Nico at the back when it was sunny and 7 in the cabin during the rain! We have experienced the joys of contortion, but it was worth it! We went in a small village far from the tourist areas in the heart of the rural population. We made a detour by San Pablito which enabled us to meet a healer, the last of his generation and also the last to know all the secrets. He recounted the history of the village and its traditions, which are also compiled in beautiful little handmade booklets on "papel amate" paper, typically manufactured on site. A marvel. We were also invited to the first communion of the daughter of the mayor, an unexpected opportunity to discover within the traditions and culture of these people. Banquet and folk dances on the programmes!

This short week in Puebla was very rich in discoveries and has uncovered a part of Mexico a little different from what we had seen so far. Thanks again to our guests!

(Article also written by Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me in Mexico for three weeks, and editor in chief for the occasion)



17 July 2012

Mexico City

Mexico City has both surprised and delighted us. Away from ideas that we can have on the dangerousness of the city, we felt at home when we arrived!

People

It is said that the people of Mexico are friendly and hospitable. Starting with our guests Arturo and Jean-Pierre, we have to admit that we were not disappointed! There was no rush on the subway. People in the street were helpful and willing to guide us and give us information. The age of the parents is quite challenging. We were able to see many very young parents (often as a couple) with their children. The issue of early motherhood really arises apparently by Mexican authorities. Indeed we noticed that the number of children in the streets is quite impressive!

Metro

The metro is quite developed in the city. It is pretty well spread all over the capital. They are long red trains that host millions of passengers daily. The name of the line stations are listed in the form of pictographs: a pictogram per station, the name written in small print below. Practical when you can not read; we know all the stations. Less for the others! The metro is an ideal place to observe the practices of trade and therefore consumption. Street vendors succeed constantly with all kinds of objects: pens, hammers, bouncing balls, bandages, pirate CDs (monopoly of blind equipped with loudspeakers on their backs). The "artists" take over the sellers. For example, children with clowns, storytellers, musical background, men doing somersaults on pieces of glass etc.

Disability

Apparently, the city is quite well suited to the disabled. All sidewalks are equipped with specific access for wheelchairs at crosswalks. However, we have not really met disabled in the streets. And even less in the subway that is very poorly equipped with elevator or escalator. By cons, the Mexico City airport apparently applies a policy of employment of disabled people, including info points where flyers are distributed exclusively by people in wheelchairs!

Besides being a beautiful city, rich in architecture and art, Mexico City is ultimately a human capital despite its huge size and its heterogeneity. What a treat!

(Article also written by Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me in Mexico for three weeks, and editor in chief for the occasion)


14 July 2012

Teotihuacán

Here are some picture of Teotihuacán, the magnificient "place where gods were born" close to Mexico City. It used to be the largest city in Mexico and the capital city of the largest pre-Columbian empire, which stretched out until the present Honduras and Salvador. (source: Lonely Planet - more info on Wikipedia).



7 July 2012

From Mazatlán to Querétaro

Thank you for being patient. Here are pictures of the last places I visited since I returned to the "mainland" after Baja California. Well, I must also say that I met Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me for three weeks, and my program is slightly accelerated since.

So here are pictures from...
  • Mazatlán (with Abel, José Luis, Alberto and Hiram), a charming little seaside town with colonial architecture.
  • Guadalajara (with Cris, Mauricio, Celia, Anais and others), its historical center declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO and the country's second largest city.
  • Tequila, its agave fields that enable the production of the famous liquor which we tasted with such moderation.
  • Tlaquepaque, a suburb of Guadalajara, a former village which soon found itself absorbed in the metropolis but has kept its character.
  • Chapala (with Cris and Celia), the lake of the same name, the largest natural lake in Mexico.
  • Guanajuato, a mining town (mainly silver) its parks, its covered market, its tunnels and its narrow streets. Also classified as World Heritage.
  • Querétaro (with Béatrice, Noé and Ivo), last step before Mexico City. Also on the World Heritage List, it offered us a different facet of a colonial city.


And the winner is...

...Enrique Peña Nieto !

The election is over. It was feared an increase in tensions, demonstrations or even violence. Finally, nothing happened.

Sunday 1st July 2012 was election day in Mexico. In fact, all elections are held on the same day every six years: municipal, parliamentarian (federal and for each state) and presidential elections. This allows to maintain a relatively good level of participation. After 3 years will be the midterm elections.


Three major parties were in the race for president: the PRD (Party of the Democratic Revolutionary, left wing party), PAN (National Action Party, right wing party) and the PRI (Institutional Revolutionary Party, "centrist").
The PRI, the ruling party for decades, ousted by the PAN during the past two terms, returned to power.

According to some people we met, none of the three was really worth being elected. Peña Nieto first.

Concretely, what elections are like in Mexico?
Before: candidates are using every possible means to seduce and convince potential voters: campaigns, gifts of all kinds (thermos, t-shirts, fans, watches etc.), posters plastered on every place imaginable (cars, walls, etc.), manipulations of all kinds especially with the most disadvantaged and illiterate to "buy" their votes.

During: queues of hundred meters in front of polling stations, polling booths, ballots to tick depending on the party you vote for (like on the poster of Josefina PAN), various ballots to be inserted into the corresponding boxes, thousands of election observers and the ley seca (48 hours ban alcohol sales in bars and shops)..

After: results with a wide gap for the presidential election leaving little doubt (in spite of probable fraud), more questionable results at the local level, counting and recounting of votes. For now, we did not see protests.


These elections can only be resonant with what we lived in France: how free are the voters, regardless of media manipulation and the parties themselves? how real democracy works? A glimmer of hope: Students are beginning to be indignant against media manipulation and the absence of public policy with the movement "Yo soy 132" movement born after the confrontation of 131 students at the University Iberoamericana with the president elect. A step forward to act on the reality and to move towards greater democracy and social justice.

(Article written by Karine, one of my best friends who came from France to visit me in Mexico for three weeks, and editor in chief for the occasion)