These Incas are fascinating

The Inca people is really amazing. At the mere mention of their name, are popping up images of the Andes, Machu Picchu, mummies and rich gold ornaments, etc.. But there are also many mysteries behind it. The word Inca denoting the Emperor above all, we speak of the people of the Inca. But it is also used as an adjective to describe the people and the empire, for example.

The Inca Empire extended from just south of today's Colombia to northern Chile, including Ecuador, Bolivia and Peru. Cusco, the "navel [of the Inca world]" in Quechua, was its capital, founded in the eleventh century. Born on the shore of Lake Titicaca, the empire was gradually formed by assimilation of different civilisations surrounding, more or less by force.

The Incas lived mainly in the mountainous region of the Andes, perched at an average altitude of 3,000 m (10,000 ft). But these geographical constraints and conditions were far from discouraging them. Instead, it is their ability to adapt to this environment which has been their strength.

To meet their needs, they cultivated terraces perched on steep cliffs. They used the slopes of the mountain as huge recovery of rainwater and ingeniously irrigated their crops. It seems that the Incas knew socialism before it even was theorised: a system of redistribution of production was organised. Valleys which missed herds were provided with meat and wool and conversely highlands whose crops were insufficient were provided with agricultural products. To do this, they developed an extensive road network that the first Europeans who arrived on the continent even compared with what had undertaken the Romans in their time.

Also surprising, studies have shown that the architecture responded perfectly to the anti-seismic standards (we are still on the Pacific Ring of Fire!). A mix of solid construction and fine settings: small stones able to move in foundations, on top of which megaliths of several tons fit perfectly without cement. It's almost comical to see the disproportion with the straw that covered the whole house and served as roof. It is for this reason that in the ruins, only the walls remain today.

The Incas had an acute knowledge of astronomy. They used solar calendars for dates, based on the same principle as the solar quadrants that give time. Thus, they knew precisely the seasons and the days of solstice and equinox. 21 or 22 June, they celebrated the winter solstice during the Festival of the Sun. In the southern hemisphere, this is the time of year when the sun is the farthest from the Earth. Therefore they worshiped him to make it coming back closer quickly.

Arrived in Cuzco on 15 November with Henning (one of two Germans with whom I travel since my return from the Galapagos), I met again with Antoine, a French guy met on a summit in Costa Rica. He goes up South American from Argentina to Colombia (with an interesting blog to follow). We agreed on a four-day trek to Machu Picchu little brother: Choquequirao. The pretentiously underestimated hike tired us a lot. The accumulation of fatigue from the last busy weeks (lots of buses and hikes), the heat and the altitude made us doubt for a moment. But we had good laugh and hiked in a stunning scenery.

On our return to Cuzco, Henning and I had always in mind to visit Machu Picchu. With the advice of fellow travelers, we were able to enjoy the site in the early morning, before the arrival of hordes of tourists. I was a little embarrassed to taking pictures, first in the fog, then under a blazing sun. But the site is magical. Perched on a hill, it is very well preserved and faithfully reproduces the atmosphere that could reign there 500 years ago.

A little history quickly. It will be short because the village of Machu Picchu has been inhabited a tiny hundred years. Its construction reportedly began in the 1440s. We still do not know now if it was a secondary residence of the Inca, a kind of Versailles of the Inca empire, outside the central government of Cuzco, where the Emperor could withdraw a portion of its court.

The fact is that the Incas deserted the site by 1538. Following the capture of Cuzco by the Spanish, the site was abandoned, lest he too falls into the hands of the Spaniards. The Inca and some of his people took refuge farther to Choquequirao in particular. 100 years of existence, but the Spaniards have never discovered a priori the two sites (Machu Picchu and Choquequirao), the Inca destroying paths behind them. It was only in the 1910s they were rediscovered and remains gradually excavated from lush vegetation.

Despite that, the empire fell to the Spaniards in the course of the sixteenth century. They then plundered everything that could be. The Kingdom of Spain has never been as rich as this time. Conquistadors took advantage also to evangelise the region. One can easily imagine that the Incas and their descendants have had difficulties to embrace this religion that advocates love and forgiveness on one side but tolerates on the other that his followers kill, loot massively, sack cities and villages, or extort vast natural resources.

Aztec or Mayan civilisations of today Mexico disappeared with the arrival of Spaniards. Despite many resistance movements active until independence, the Incas managed to accommodate themselves to the invader. Particularly from a religious point of view, they have cleverly managed to match Christian celebrations and rites with their own festivals. For example, they continued to celebrate the sun, but at the time of the feast of St. John (June 24), without anybody noticing! A mixture of "pagan" and Christian beliefs still present today.

So an exciting week in the heart of the Inca Empire, a week to learn a little more about this fascinating people living in an particularly hostile but beautiful Andean environment. And now there are still ruins, haloed by mystery, in which one walks to try to imagine the magnificence of this incredible civilisation.

From Cuenca to Cuzco

Day 300. Kilometre 34,780 (Mile 21,610). Latitude 13° 31' south.

Two weeks between Cuenca, Ecuador and Cuzco, Peru. Two weeks when the rhythm has increased. Two weeks during which I rode more than 3,400 km in bus. Two weeks during which I hiked a lot.

Distance between Cuenca and Cuzco : 3,400 km (2,110 mi)

On my way, I crossed the border with my friend Kati, who I've regularly met since Costa Rica. Then I also spent a lot of time with Henning and Paulo, two German. Among others, we hiked in Huascarán National Park. Wonderful trekking at more than 4,000 meters (13,000 ft) and a maximum at 4,750 m (15,580 ft). Technically accessible even if altitude makes it more challenging! Some pictures here.

Then, very short visit of Lima, between two night buses. I tend to avoid major cities in this moment, prefering hiking in the wild. On the bus from Lima to Cuzco, I met Nicolás, from Colombia, y Olivier y Magalie, a French couple from Normandy. Now that I arrived in Cuzco, I'll go for a 5-day hike with Henning and Antoine (a French guy I met in Costa Rica). And I'll finish with the visit of famous Machu Picchu.

The Galapagos Islands

Galapagos ... an archipelago that has often made me dream since my childhood. But it seemed so far from my route. And then arriving in Ecuador, I realized that I will probably never be as close. And I listened to the advice of a friend of mine: "Do not pass up the opportunity, you will not regret it!”

And actually, I did not regret it. Arrived in Quito, I toured the travel agencies to see available cruises. And I opted for a 8-day tour in the Northern and South-Eastern Islands, the richest in the wildlife that interested me. On the boat, we were 14 passengers and 7 crew members plus the guide. A very good group: long-distance solo travelers and a group of retired Texan birders. A very enriching mix!

The Galapagos Islands are a world in itself. First, its location, right in the Pacific Ocean, more than 1,000 kilometers of coastline. Then, it is one of the few places in the world to have never been attached to a continent. The archipelago is located on a hot spot, volcanoes are erupting regularly, and over 10 million years, have given rise to (and still do) these islands in the middle of the ocean.

It is a universe in itself for its percentage (probably the highest in the world) of endemic species, that is to say that they exist nowhere else. And that is as true for flora and fauna. For some species, one wonders how they could "land" here, especially mammals or reptiles.

But this world is a fragile world. It's a World Heritage Site, but Unesco even registered it on the list of endangered sites between 2007 and 2011. It is a delicate balance that exists on site. The presence of man is not trivial: it is the one who is best placed to make efforts in conservation, but paradoxically human activities also contribute most to the deterioration of areas (pollution, introduced species: cats, dogs, rats, goats, etc.., which are all predators to animals or plants).

Other factors contribute to the fragility of the site. El Niño, a climate phenomenon more or less cyclical, warms Pacific waters and leads to a decrease of fish stocks, staple diet of many other species. Volcanic islands implies that there is little soil for plants to grow. Thus each species, whether plant or animal, has learned over thousands of years to adapt to this environment so special. A single grain of sand in the gears causes disturbances that can move quickly to the extinction of a species.

It's sad but it's not dramatic, say the skeptics. After all, what are the Galapagos compared to the rest of the planet? Well, this is just the perfect sample of what happens in a larger (and scarier) scale on other continents and seas. But political leaders don't seem to really realize that, or at least don't have the political will to act and prevent the consequences (of global warming, among others) before they eventually become irreversible.

On my side too, I wondered about my stay there. For the reasons I have already stated: I took a fly again, I would contribute to human activities that can be harmful to the environment, etc. At the same time, I knew it would feed my thinking on these issues of biodiversity or environmental protection.

And I confess that I really enjoyed myself in the middle of these animals so special, so unusual in our latitudes. This was so fascinating that these animals are fearless. For them, in the worst case, we men are just annoying paparazzi, but never perceived as predators. Birds do not fly at our approach, reptiles do not take refuge under a rock and sea lions continue their nap quietly.

So much for those few unforgettable days. Here are the photos now. And I take this opportunity to thank Ryan for his underwater pictures.

Race Info

Day 291. Kilometer 32,925 (Mile 20,460). Latitude 9° 31' South.

Pictures and article are about to be published. Just to make you wait a bit, here is a sum-up of my stay in Ecuador.

Distance on land in Ecuador then

on boat in the Galapagos: 2,285 km (1,420 mi)

I arrived on October 19 in Ecuador with Dušan, a Slovak met in Popayán (my last step in Colombia). The next day we spent time in the colorful market of Otavalo. See pictures in article “Market day in Otavalo”.

Then we moved to Quito and the famous equator line. It was obviously a symbolic landmark in this travel from North to South of the Americas. But crossing the Panama canal will remain an even stronger moment. Anyway, I am now, so to speak, on the other side of the planet for the first time of my life.

I visited Quito. For sure it will not remain as a highlight of my journey: huge city, not really attractive, despite the magnificent church San Francisco. Some pictures in “The equator in Quito”.

Then I quickly went through Baños, little village laying in a valley of the Cordillera. I left Dušan. Night bus until Guayaquil and early flight led me the next morning to the Galapagos. I swear! Pictures are coming soon. Just be patient, I don't have an easy access to the Internet and I have some work to do on my numerous pictures.

Back on mainland, I directly went to Cuenca from where I hiked in El Cajas National Park with Christina, Henning and Paul, three Germans. Passing from sea level to more than 4,000 m (13,000 ft) in a few hours is a real challenge! But I liked it and I will do it again with Henning and Paul in a few days in Northern Peru. This time at 5,000 m (16,500 ft).

Last step: Vilcabamba. I met again Kati. I knew her in Costa Rica, then we traveled in Panama, we also visited the region of San Agustin in Colombia and I briefly met her in the Galapagos (I was arriving while she was leaving). This time we crossed the Ecuador-Peru frontier, after an endless trip in the mountains, in the middle of no-where, with Solène and François, from Quebec.

That's it for now. But I'll be back very soon with pictures from the Galapagos!