Huayna Potosí

In Cuzco, with pictures of his ascent of Huayna Potosí, Antoine made Henning and me dream. Once Paulo and Lisa joined us in Puno, the expedition was in the pipes. After meeting Kati in La Paz, we all five knocked on the door of Altitud 6000, the agency recommended by Antoine. I don't usually make advertising, but the quality of care and professionalism of the guides are noteworthy.

We left from La Paz for three days: one day of preparation at base camp, one day ascent up to the second base camp, a third day to climb the summit and return to La Paz. You have to be ready to confront a peak at 6,088 m (19,975 ft)! Altitude-wise, it's ok, it's been several weeks since we all move around at more than 3,000 m, except Kati freshly returning from a month in the Amazonia. Physically, ascension is not the most complicated for novices like us. Finally, in terms of equipment, the agency lent us all what we needed: jacket and pants, hiking boots, gaiters, crampons, ice ax, harness, helmet, etc..

And here is the dream team: the five of us already excited and amazed by the Cordillera Real which encircles the city of La Paz, accompanied by Juancho (the mountain guide who opened this agency), William and Ismael, the other two guides, and Tofi the cook. Very good atmosphere. The ascent began in La Paz (3,600 m – 11,800 ft), then we crossed the suburb of El Alto (4,100 m – 13,450 ft) on the Altiplano. We arrived at the first base camp (indoor, don't worry!) at 4,850 m (15,900 ft).

There, a little practice was waiting for us: walking with crampons and ice axes. We even ice climbed. My only regret when I left Alaska! On the second day, a small walk to reach the second base camp (indoor as well). We acclimatised, eat well, drink mate de coca, this tea made of coca leaves to help manage the changes in elevation.

Third day, starting at 1am. The objective is clear: to be at the top for sunrise. We started in the snow and wind. Progress is slow. Kati eventually gave up in the middle. Probably not quite acclimated to the altitude. We continued still under the clouds. And suddenly, probably high enough, to 5,700 m (18,700 ft), the sky opened itself and let us see the first light of day, just above the clouds. It is so beautiful that I am really moved!

The following is less funny. I had to stop at 6,000 m (19,685 ft): the headache I'd had in the morning does not pass. It even got worse and kept me from eating and drinking. I think I never had such headache of my life, to smash it against the wall. I felt my strength gradually abandoning me and if I wanted to go down by myself, I had to keep some reserves. I stopped there and let Henning, Lisa and Paulo continue to the top, so close.

In the end, yes, I am a little disappointed not to have been able to go up there. But happy with my first mountaineering experience. And then I came down with what I was looking for: the sunrise above the clouds!

I know, I'm a little late in blogging and posting pictures. Very soon, the report of the five-day hike in the Cordillera Apolobamba from which I just returned.